Now offering screen repair for ALL MacBook Airs!

Years ago when the MacBook Air was drawn from a manilla envelope and rocked the industry, many repair techs were perplexed by it's complex simplicity. Mainly, I'm referring to its gratuitous use of double-sided tape in its construction.

This tape would make it difficult to cleanly remove some parts or to replace them and still look original. I'm referring to the aluminum bezel that is taped to the lid and frames the LCD. In removing this bezel, it could easily become misshapen and may not adhere as well as it did before. I made an effort to find a technique that would work best to save the bezel and am quite proud that my work is now completely flawless.

However, the first iteration of MacBook Air ended when the new (still more slim) models entered the scene in 2010. This new construction brought with it an interesting display unlike any most have encountered. Rather than installing a completely enclosed LCD/backlight assembly, the lid of the laptop acted as a frame and case for the assembly. While it's difficult to explain to some that have never opened their lid to remove the screen, the difference simply made it difficult to find a source for the LCD as a single piece.
For some time, the only solution to a broken MacBook Air LCD was to replace the entire lid! This is exponentially more costly and so impractical.

Now there are reliable outlets for the individual LCD panel  and I'm offering cracked screen replacement for all current MacBook Air models!

Email me to set up a repair or if you have any questions! I can't wait to help!

Mac Repair and Services

My iBook G4 won't Startup!

You press the power button on your iBook and it may click and whir, but no gong. Or it may gong, but nothing appears on the screen! It's either solid grey or solid black. Your iBook is facing it's inevitable shortcoming.

I've been repairing Apple computers for a decade now, and in all of that time I have never encountered the same issue as often as I have with the iBook G4. The numbers astound even myself and I've gone through so many iBook's that I can usually disassemble and reassemble the laptop within an hour.

What is this flaw that is substantially inherent? A few little balls, of course.

Knoweth Thine Enemy

This image depicts the solder balls that are used in ball-grid-array surface-mount methods, which were used to mount your iBook's Graphics Processor Unit (GPU) to the motherboard.

In BGA mounting, a simple bead of solder is used to create electrical connections, rather than using pins or wires. The only issue with this method is that the solder is solely responsible for both conducting electricity and providing mounting support for the component. This means that the stress of thermal expansion is placed on, you guessed it, the chip's miniscule balls.

The solder's melting temperature is never reached by the normal function of the laptop, rather the reoccurring expansion and contraction of the components heating and cooling creates stress. Because the older methods of BGA used hard components with no give, the solder cannot flex and eventually cracks, causing tears of frustration and hours of tech-support calls. But no longer!

Just fix it!

(trademark iDecker enterprises LLC.LMAO)

As aforementioned, I've repaired no less than several hundred iBook G4's with similar issues. If it can be fixed, I will fix it. But how is it done? There are many methods posted on the internet (some more or less orthodox than others) and I have developed my own, but I do not recommend that any person attempt to repair their own iBook G4's GPU!

I cannot stress this enough. I and any other right-minded tech will charge more to sort out a bag of screws and components and attempt to reassemble what's left of your repair attempts. Laptop repair is never as easy as it appears on eHow.

While I won't share how it's done, I'm proud to say I have never damaged a customer's laptop and that I've only been unsuccessful at two (yes, I keep count) iBook GPU repairs. If your iBook is having the issue described, then let me help. On a personal level, I enjoy seeing older Macs still in use and prefer to help keep these aging beauties from facing retirement in the landfill. In fact, I often write this blog on my collection of ancient macs such as the "clamshell" iBook and my 12" PowerBook!

Keep your Mac ticking and ask about my iBook G4 GPU reflow service!

I hope to help you soon!

-My faithful PowerBook

What to do after a Spill?

    Nowadays, notebook sales are soaring over sales of desktops. With the new boundless domain arising for on-the-go computing, portable devices are trekking into more and more unusual and uncharted territories. Laptops are appearing on kitchen counter-tops, dining tables in cafés, and even poolside. The chances of a notebook computer having a direct encounter with their lethal nemesis, water, are multiplying exponentially. So it's only sensible that we familiarize our selves with the procedure to follow should your notebook take a dip.

What to do after a spill

   The steps to follow are rather straight forward, but the important factor is time. It's imperitive that we remove all power from the device to avoid any water from shorting the circuits.

1. Immediately after your notebook comes into contact with liquid, you must shut the computer off. If the spill is minor, then properly shut the computer down while moving or tilting the notebook as little as possible. If the spill is directly on any seams or ports of the notebook (keyboard keys, power or I/O ports, fan vents) then hold the power button down until the computer cuts off.

2. Remove the battery, if possible, and unplug all accessories, cables, and power adapters from the notebook.

3. Lay a dry cloth or towel on a flat surface such as the edge of a table or counter and place the laptop, with the keys facing down and the display at a 45º angle, directly on the towel with the display hanging over the edge of our flat surface.

4. Allow the computer to rest, without repositioning or supplying power to it, for one to seven days depending on the amount of liquid that was spilled. (One client left a MacBook Pro sitting for two weeks after spilling wine on the keyboard before it finally booted)

So THAT'S why the logo is upside down

5. After the drying period, try to power the computer on. If it does not power on properly, allow it to sit again until it has sat for more than one week after the spill.

6. Once the computer is capable of booting, run the extensive Apple Hardware Test on intel-based Macs to ensure there are no hardware issues.

7. If the computer does not boot, reports any errors during the Apple Hardware Test, or has any issues that appear after having been wet, take the computer to a trusted Apple technician to diagnose and repair any issues.

    It's really this simple to avoid a costly repair after such an accident. Just act quick and you may get away with nothing more than red-wine tinted keys!

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Upgrading and Replacing Mac Hardware: There is no "Mac RAM"

Mac & PC: So different yet so alike...

     It's long been assumed that Apple PC's use a sort of magical hardware, excluding them from the realm of other PC manufacturers. While it may have been the case that in the past Macs used different interfaces (ADB, ADC), in recent years Apple's hardware has paralleled and preceded that of other OEM's. Let's look at the compatibility of Apple computers with standard hardware.

The Source of Legends

     The misconceptions of Apple hardware stem from a time when Apple used less common interfaces. When the Macintosh was released, it didn't use IBM's memory or expansion card standards. At a time when IBM reigned as king of the techno-industry, releasing computer systems that didn't support these standards was a risky venture. However, in time, Apple adopted more common standards and even headed the advancement of some widespread technologies today.
     Transitioning from SCSI to PATA then SATA, eliminating classic interfaces such as Serial ports in favor of USB and FireWire, and most recently, being the first with intel's Thunderbolt technology, Apple has formed and conformed to the PC norm. Let's bust some myths.

Hard Drives

     Apple first used SCSI to interface their hard drives. While SCSI was not as popular as ATA, it was a widely supported standard. Apple did, however, eventually begin to use ATA/ATAPI interfaces, starting with the Macintosh TV in 1993. SCSI was still an interface option for Apple's machines until the release of the Blue & White Power Macintosh G3 in 1999.
 Most recently, Apple adopted the SATA standard with the PowerMac G5 in 2003.
     Finally, every intel-based Mac uses SATA as the drive interface. Even the MacBook Air with the proprietary SSD uses a SATA interface, though without the standard i-SATA connector. It should be noted that all 2011-model-year Macs and later support 6.0gbps SATA.

RAM

     Take a look at the image of the memory above. One of these sticks is from a Mac, one was purchased on Amazon.com, and one was pulled from a Dell notebook.

     Since the Macintosh Plus in 1986, Apple has used standard RAM in its machines. The image above shows three sticks of DDR2, all of which are fully compatible in a MacBook, provided they are a compatible speed. All current Macs (at the time of writing) support DDR3, which can be purchased at any computer-hardware outlet.
    RAM is not forward or backward compatible. DDR2 is not compatible with DDR3, etc. However, RAM speeds are fully backward compatible. The original MacBook, for instance, uses DDR2-5300. Any module of DDR2-6400, DDR2-8500 or theoretically greater would work fine. The memory bus would simply limit the higher-speed RAM to the speeds of the DDR2-5300. It's also ok to mix RAM of different speeds.
    To get the most performance out of your memory, it's commonly advised that you purchase modules of the same capacity and install them only in even numbers (except some Mac Pros, which support triple-channel memory).

     The optical drives and LCD panels used in Macs are also typically off-the-shelf parts or available to other OEM's. So replacing that cracked MacBook LCD doesn't require finding a screen specifically for Apple notebooks. Along those same lines, don't let vendors scam you by stating that their RAM is something special by being labeled "Mac compatible".

     I hope this post was informative and helpful! Write me if you have any similar topics in mind!

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A1181 MacBook Displays: Determining Common Issues

     It seems like a bad week for the original A1181 MacBook. I’ve received four MacBooks for display issues all within a course of seven days. At least I could use this to help explain what some symptoms may mean, considering they all have different causes.

Symptom: Backlight is on for a short time but immediately cuts out when moved.
Cause: Bad Inverter Power Cable
Fix: Inverter Power Cable (~$10 part)

This BlackBook was, at first, displaying light at some times, depending on the angle of the display. Shortly, though, I was not able to get any light what-so-ever.
I tested it with a new inverter and it worked great... for a short time. Then the light was kaput. I replaced the screen and we were back in business...until I installed it with the original cables. As it had turned out, another common problem was responsible. This model of Mac is prone to breaking the inverter power cable. The broken wire was clearly evident.

I finally replaced the wire as well, and it no longer had any problems.

Symptom: Screen has horizontal lines that move and change when the display is squeezed, wiggled, or thumped.
Cause: Bad Display Controller
Fix: Replaced LCD Panel with used part (~$50 part)

This Mac appeared to have a bad data cable, at first. However, a data cable would effect the horizontal lines if the display is tilted or wiggled. Instead, they only changed when the LCD panel itself was agitated.
As it turned out, the controller inside the LCD had gone. I replaced this with a used part at the owner’s request to save on cost. No more problems.

Symptom: Backlight is only on when display is at a certain angle
Cause: Bad Inverter Power Cable
Fix: Replaced Inverter Power Cable (~$10 part)

When I received this Mac, it was immediately apparent what had happened. The backlight would come on when the display was at a very particular angle. Otherwise, there was no light.
This is common when the inverter power cable (which powers the backlight) has a broken or shorted wire. One $10 part saved this one from being a parts machine for this client.

Symptom: Backlight is on for a short time but cuts out after several minutes.
Cause: Bad Inverter Board
Fix: Replaced the Inverter Board (~$10 part)

A common prognosis for this issue on any notebook is a dying/dead inverter board. When the issue first arrises, the light will cut out during normal use at frequencies that may increase over time, or the light may cut out and never come back on.
I replaced the inverter board and have had no further problems.

Repair Experiences

     I’ve opened no less than one-hundred A1181 MacBooks and repaired more than half of the displays. It’s a very quick process for somebody with so much experience and each of these were fixed within one hour of having the parts on-hand.

     Have a problem similar to the ones listed above or any other Mac issues? Visit Mac Service & Repair for an estimate and to set up a repair now!

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Just Use It: Extending the Life of Your Mac Battery

Use it or lose it... well sooner than later, rather 

     It’s a sad fact of life, but batteries die. The OEM giveth, and the OEM...taketh? Any how, whether your device has a NiMh, NiCad, Li-ion or LiPo, your battery’s capacity will degrade over time until it will hold no charge. But what can we do to extend the life of our precious providers of power? Here I’m going to explain the do’s and don’t’s of notebook batteries.

Discharge Now or Dispose Sooner

     Today’s Apple portables sport super-efficient Lithium-Polymer (LiPo) batteries. As with most battery chemistries, these will require a bit of upkeep by you, the user.

     Many people leave their MacBooks constantly plugged in at a desk and rarely venture away from a power socket. I’ve personally encountered some users that seemed almost paranoid of the battery falling below 90%. This is anything but beneficial to your battery. Apple advertises that the new notebook batteries should last five years or more, depending on usage. Does that guarantee they will last so long? Not at all, but there are ways you can get the most out of your battery.

     LiPo batteries must be used! Used as in charged and discharged, keeping the electrons flowing, and allowing your Mac to calibrate it’s capacity rating of your battery, which is important as you’ll read.

     Your Mac calculates how it should charge your battery and how it can expect the battery to perform due to past performance. To keep these calculations accurate, and thus give your battery the best possible treatment, you must simply use it.
     Every month or so, you should unplug the Mac and allow the battery to drain. You don’t have to drain it entirely, but using it for more than an hour will allow your Mac to better estimate the “juice” and what it can expect as far as longevity.

Your Mac's Workout Routine

     2011 and later Mac portables are pre-calibrated, so the often-mentioned initial calibration is not necessary. However a calibration should be performed monthly or bi-monthly. Here's how!

First, charge the battery to full capacity.

Once the battery stops charging and the light on the magsafe turns green, you should unplug the cable. We have to discharge the battery completely, so now is the time to see how many HD YouTube videos you can open at the same time and take Photo Booth pictures to post on your FaceBook wall.
[Notice it says “once the battery stops charging” and not when it is full. If your light on your magsafe is green and your battery is under 100% but above 93%, this is completely normal and in-fact conducive of your battery’s performance]

Allow the battery to deplete until the Mac forcibly shuts down, then allow it to sit for at least six hours to deplete the charge entirely. It’s a good idea to plan this immediately before bed-time.

After the six-hour period, you can plug the magsafe into the Mac again and allow it to charge for about ten minutes before starting it up.

Again, allow the battery to charge until the light turns green, and your Mac is now calibrated to charge and use your battery efficiently.

     Good job! Cookies in the lobby and your choice of Disney® Princess or Hot Wheels® stickers. Please only take one!

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Standard ATX Power Supply in PowerMac G4 MDD

 My PowerMac G4 gets a heart transplant... That's just me... saving lives, day by day...

 The PowerMac G4 Mirror Door Drive was quite an abrupt departure from the computer towers of the day. As well, the power was something that challenged intel, often beating their CPU’s with only half the clock speeds. But what’s a PowerMac with a dead power supply? Well, for a few months, it was a nice decoration. I’ll show you how you can restore that floor decor into a respectable power house!

No give-sie back-sie!

 One day, I got an email from somebody that was asking for computer repair. I was the only person in the area that specialized in Macs, so the person was happy to stop by and let me take a look. I immediately concluded that the power supply was gone, which is an inherent flaw in the Mirror Door Drive.
 On a whim, I asked the owner if he’d consider trading it for a PC I had just picked up the same day. He said, “a working one for a non-working one? Might as well.” So we swapped the hard drives and he left satisfied with his new Pentium 4.
[It was intel’s Pentium 4 that the PowerMac used to stomp]

 Without thinking too much of it, I simply left the PowerMac sitting at the foot of my bed for three months.
 Finally, work was slim one week and I was getting restless. I looked over at the beautiful G4 and decided that it deserved to be humming along playing iTunes and Quake rather than collecting dust.

We can rebuild him. We have the technology.

 I realized that the molex connector on the motherboard was a standard 24-pin ATX! I also realized that a standard ATX power supply with 24 pins had all but one of the right leads! But was that one lead the crucial factor that would bury my plans? Considering you’re reading this post now, you can probably guess that no...no it wasn’t.
 That one pin is the 25v supply for the Apple Display Connector. If you don’t use an Apple Display with an ADC connector, then this is a non-issue and we can continue!

 Because this was simply experimental, I wanted to keep a tight budget. I spent $45 on a standard 350w ATX power supply at Best Buy. The first MDD G4 used a 400w power supply and the later models used 360w. I am not certain if the 400w power supply was simply a redundancy or if it’s necessary, but I know that using two hard drives, one DVD drive, and an ATI Radeon 9000 Pro graphics card, I never had an issue with the power draw.

 I didn’t want to ruin the power supply if the experiment was unsuccessful, so rather than snipping any wires, I simply pulled the pins from the Molex connector to rearrange them. This is the guide I used:

[Keep in mind that this is how the pins should look if viewing from the back of the connector, not the end with the pins.]

 After arranging the pins, I connected the PSU to the motherboard and tested it open. Bingo! I was exhilarated to see the power button light up and to hear the gong... Of course it didn’t boot because the drive still had a Windows installation on it, but that was taken care of with a Tiger install disc.

 It was running excellently with no hang ups, so I figured it was time to make it work while closed. After fumbling around enough, I was able to squeeze the beast into the PowerMac ever so.

I simply strung some hanging-wire through the holes in the top of the metal frame and suspended the PSU in such a way that the graphics card, which occupied the lowest [AGP] slot, would slip under it with a bit of wiggling.

 The downsides to this specific setup are that I can’t place any 64-bit or full-sized PCI cards into the slots and the power supply would just heat them with its exhaust.

 So there we have a perfectly functional (minus ADC port) PowerMac G4!

 Now that I’ve done all of the experimenting for you, we can feel more confident in using a standard ATX PSU. Ideally, you could use a Mini ITX power supply that would fit in the original power supply’s slot! This would  allow you to fit any PCI card into the slots!
 Finally, the most straight-forward process would be to simply cut the cable from the original MDD power supply and splice the wires to the new PSU, matching the voltages of course. Simply remove the brown 25v cable from the molex connector and the cable would fit and connect just as intended!

 I’d like to give this another try with a Mini ITX power supply some day.

Oh this would be simply beautiful...

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